Knowing
is half the battle to find the right suit
03/10/06
Dear Kathi,
I am in the market for a new suit. This time I want to buy
the best that I can afford and would like to know a little
more about what to look and ask for. Could you explain a little
more about suits and the differences in fabric, cut, and all
the other subtleties involved? I feel inadequate and unable
to differentiate a good suit from a bad one. I know it’s
not only about the price tag.
Josh, San Diego
Josh,
Congratulations on taking the time to learn a little before
you buy your next suit. There are many factors that will determine
the quality of a suit. I will begin by addressing the nomenclature
you often hear when buying a suit.
The “rise” of a pant is the length between the
top of the waistband and the crotch.
The “inseam” is the area from the bottom of the
crotch to the bottom of the hemline.
The “outseam” is the area from the top of the
waistband to the bottom of the hemline.
The “drop” is the difference between the chest
and waist measurements. Athletic cut suits typically feature
an 8 inch drop meaning that the coat might be a 44”
but the slacks feature a 36-inch waist.
Being a “details man” is always a compliment and
noticed in the first few moments with a new contact. Keep
this in mind when you look at a suit, and inspect it for high
quality fabric and masterful tailoring.
Make sure that the fine workmanship is apparent. The fabric
and seaming overall should be smooth without rolls and pulls.
The lapels should curve smoothly along the chest. The collar
must lie flat along the neckline. All seams should be securely
sewn and lie flat against the inside of the fabric. Shoulder
pads should be smooth and sloping. Sleeves must hang straight
with an even hemline. Buttonholes that have irregular stitches
are a good indication of quality workmanship and are evidence
of hand sewing.
For proper fit, the jacket should fit closely to the body
without pulling or bunching when buttoned. The seaming should
follow your body’s natural line. If the jacket does
not fit perfectly, pay to have it altered by a master tailor.
Oftentimes, if you ask for the best, the store will recommend
a tailor, as opposed to suggesting you use the store tailor,
so make sure to let the salesman know you want the best. A
perfectly tailored suit always makes an impression.
If you want a more versatile suit, buy one with an unlined
jacket. Believe it or not, these jackets are of higher quality
because almost all details show up on the inside. More care
is taken to create a quality piece when everything shows.
You will find these jackets more cross-seasonal and also easier
to wear as separates. The shoulders are generally softer with
less padding for an easy sloping line. You will find fewer
interior pockets, which is a nice way to keep you from adding
unnecessary bulk to your profile.
Thanks for writing and don’t hesitate to write with
any other specific questions.
